Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

CULTURE BEYOND BORDERS

I HAD OFTEN IMAGINED MYSELF cruising on the Khardung La road or hunched atop a Bactrian camel in Nubra Valley. But when my friends and I finally made that summer road trip across Ladakh, I found myself drawn towards Turtuk, the northernmost village of India, beyond which lies the Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan.

The eight-hour drive from Leh to Turtuk, along the River Shyok, was memorable. The awe-inspiring views of changing terrain and the patriotic music that blared from the hundreds of army trucks en route kept us going through tough conditions. Turtuk,

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