Gourmet Traveller

A GRAND OLD DAME

It is only human to be dazzled by the new, drawn to shiny hotels and captivated by slick concept restaurants. We are on a lifelong quest for the surprising and the novel, mainly because it gives us something to talk about. As epicurean adventurers, we’ll brave waiting lists and queues in order to sidle up to a much-hyped hotel or newly-opened restaurant, basking in the glow of this young hospitality starlet, enjoying what might turn out to be just 15 minutes of fame.

Our collective fetishisation of newness means we should be even more in awe of the historic grande dame hotel who has quietly charmed travellers for decades. The tough old bird who has weathered the storms history hurled her way – wars, recessions, pandemics – with dignity and grace. Who has an endless stream of scintillating stories and star-studded anecdotes, but knows when to lean back demurely and provide a decorative backdrop. And the ultimate marker of a classy hotel: the knack of putting anyone in the room at ease.

Like Claridge’s, in London, which welcomed my two male companions and I into our suite without batting an eyelid. “We’re just friends!” I insisted, but Claridge’s was too classy to care. I’ll admit I was worried they might find my request – a sleepover with my

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