The Surfing Life
You never realize how the pieces of your life are fitting together as it’s happening. Then one day, you find yourself swimming through a world-class wave making photos of the world’s best surfers, and you take stock of how you got there. So many little things in my life, from where I was born to what my dad did for work to what sports I played in high school, led me to a career that seemed almost destined for me.
Growing up in Hawaii, my entire childhood revolved around the water. When I was a kid, my parents would pack
