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FROM PATCH TO PLATE Matthew Fort

A plump, rounded green pearl lies in the palm of my hand – the first pea of the season (Douce Provence if you must know). This is a precious moment. I pop the green pearl into my mouth and crush it between tongue and palate. There is a gentle sweetness to its flavour, and a breezy grassiness and certain honeysuckle perfume and – well, there’s

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