GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
ABBREVIATIONS
0 = no sts/times/rows; alt = alternate; approx = approximately; beg = begin/ning; ch = chain; cont = continue; dec = decrease/decreasing; dc = double crochet; dtr = double treble; excl = excluding; foll/s = follows/following; garter st = every row knit; htr = half treble; inc = increase/increasing; incl = including/inclusive; K = knit; LH = left hand; lp = loop/s; M1 = make 1; P = purl; patt = pattern; psso = pass slipped st over; p2sso = pass 2 slipped sts over; rem = remain/ing; rep = repeat/ing; RH = right hand; RS = right side; sl = slip; sl st = slip stitch; sps = space/s; st/s = stitch/es; stocking st = stocking stitch (knit right side rows, purl wrong side rows or every round knit when working in rounds); tbl = through back of loop; tog = together; tr = treble; WS = wrong side; ybk = yarn back (take yarn under needle from purling position into knitting position, without making a st); yfwd = yarn forward (bring yarn under needle then over into knitting position again, making a st); yft = yarn front (take yarn under needle from knitting position into purling position without making a st); yoh = yarn over hook; yrn = yarn round needle (take yarn right around needle into purling position, making a st); yon = yarn over needle (take yarn over top of needle, into knitting position, making a st).
YARN HINTS AND TIPS
• Quantities and project measurements are approximate. These projects have been designed for the yarns specified in the patterns. Other yarns are likely to produce different results.
• Using the specified yarn, make a 15cm tension square. Use pins or tape to mark a 10cm square inside the edges and count the number of stitches and rows within this space. Check this against the tension recommended in your pattern. If fewer stitches, use smaller needles to rework swatch until correct; if more stitches, rework swatch with larger needles.
• Check ball bands to ensure all yarn of same colour is from the same dyelot, and for care instructions.
• Do not press projects when finished, unless otherwise specified.
AUSTRALIAN/UK CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS USED THROUGHOUT BOOKLET
Knitting and crochet skill levels Easy For those with some experience of shaping in knitting or crochet • Simple patterns with basic shaping using repetitive stitch patterns • Shaping in easy patterns. • Simple patterns suitable for first-time pattern workers • Decreasing in pattern Intermediate For those who are confident in following patterns
• Textured patterns
• Cables • Simple Fair Isle
• Easy lace • Shaping in pattern
YARN STOCKISTS AND PATTERN ENQUIRIES
• The Australian Yarn Company (03) 5442 4673
SLIP STITCH HEM
MATTRESS STITCH
MIR MAKE 1 STICH(RIGHT SLANTING)
To make an extra stitch with left-hand needle, pick up loop which lies before next stitch (from the back).
Knit into front of this loop. This will twist the loop and prevent a hole.
M1 OR M1L MAKE 1 STITCH (LEFT SLANTING)
To make an extra stitch, with left-hand needle, pick up loop which lies before next stitch (from the front).
Knit into back of this loop. This will twist the loop and prevent a hole from appearing in your work.
CABLE DECREASE - CDB OR CDF
1. Slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold behind following 2 stitches for CDB (or hold in front for CDF).
2. (Knit next stitch on each needle together) twice.
TURNING AND WORKING SHORT ROWS
When pattern specifies ‘turn’, proceed as follows to avoid holes in your work: if the last stitch was knitted, take the yarn under the needle to the front of the work as for purling (if the last stitch was purled, take arn to the back as for knitting). Slip the next stitch from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle. Take the yarn back to it’s original position. Slip the stitch back to the left-hand needle. The unworked stitch now has the yarn wrapped around it - this is to prevent a hole.
RUNNING STITCH SEAM CROCHET
Working through two loops
Working through one loop
A running stitch seam can be used to produce a raised, decorative seam or a hidden invisible seam – it depends on which side of the work is uppermost when sewing. For a raised, decorative seam: with right side facing, work under 1 or 2 loops of the last row of stitches. For a hidden seam: with wrong side facing, work under both loops of the last row of stitches.
FLAT SEAM STOCKING STITCH CAST OFF EDGES
FLAT SEAM GARTER STITCH KNITTING VERTICAL
FRENCH KNOT
SATIN STITCH
TASSEL
CHANGING COLOUR IN CROCHET
When changing colour, work in the old yarn until 2 loops of the last stitch remain. Use the new colour to complete the stitch.
HALF MATTRESS STITCH CROCHET
Put the 2 pieces next to each other, right side up and edges together. Bring threaded needle up through centre of first edge stitch. Insert needle in centre of first edge stitch on other piece, then out again at centre of next edge stitch on that side. Insert needle in centre of same edge stitch on first piece, then out again at centre of next edge stitch. Swap from side to side, always going into the centre of the stitch that the last stitch on that side came out of. Keep the seam firm, but do not pull the yarn too tightly – the seam should not be any tighter than the crochet fabric.
STRAIGHT STITCH
Straight stitches are used to add details. To prevent puckering, do not pull stitches too tightly.
USING A SET OF DOUBLE-POINTED NEEDLES
A set is used for knitting without seams. Knitting is done in rounds rather than rows. Divide stitches evenly between 3 needles, then use the remaining needle to work the stitches on the next needle. Do not turn the work but knit around the outside in a circle so every round is the right side.
FLAT SEAM CROCHET
With right side up, place 2 pieces to be joined side by side. Stitch from side to side, row by row, always bringing the needle up from underneath. Do not pull stitches too tightly – the seam should be as elastic as the fabric it joins. Depending on the height of the crochet stitches involved, you may need to sew 1, 2 or even 3 stitches per row to achieve a neat finish. If sewing double crochet fabric one stitch per row will be sufficient, but if sewing treble fabric 2 stitches per row may look better.
CASTING ON A SEAM STITCH
When casting on a seam stitch, do not increase by knitting onto front and back of stitch. Make a loop with yarn as shown and slip onto left-hand needle, pulling up stitch firmly, then work as first stitch of row.
CARNIVAL HARLEQUIN THROW
Intermediate crochet
Measurements
120 x 165cm approx
Gather your supplies
Panda Magnum 8 ply (100g): 2 balls 1st Colour (C1) Inca gold Shade 336, 2nd Colour (C2) Amber Shade 1088, 3rd Colour (C3) Fawn Shade 334, 4th Colour (C4) Pink Shade 305, 5th Colour (C5) Antique rose Shade 1049, 6th Colour (C6) Mango Shade 2037, 7th Colour (C7) Shrimp Shade 1097, 8th Colour (C8) Flamingo Shade 1067; and 9th Colour (C9) Rose sorbet Shade 1002; 1 ball 10th Colour (C10) Orange Shade 378, 11th Colour (C11) Fuchsia Shade 381 and 12th Colour (C12) Lemon sorbet Shade 1003; 4mm crochet hook; yarn needle
Here’s how
Tension: Mitred square motif measures 15cm from point to point, using 4mm hook. Correct tension is not essential for this throw, however stated measurements and yarn quantities are based on this tension.
Special abbreviations dc3tog =* Insert hook in back lp of next dc and draw lp through, rep from * twice, yoh and draw through all 4 lps on hook.
dc2tog =* Insert hook in back lp of next dc and draw lp through, rep from * once, yoh and draw through all 3 lps on hook.
Mitred square motif (make 157 in total, using colours listed in table) Using 4mm hook and edge colour, loosely make 36ch. 1st row (WS): Miss first ch, 1dc in each ch to end … 35dc. Using main colour and working in back lp only, 2nd row: 1ch, 1dc in each of next 16dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc (centre dc), miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 16dc.
Working in both lps, 1ch, 1dc in each of next 15dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 15dc. Working in back lp only, 1ch, 1dc in each of next 14dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 14dc.
