Stone country

Australia’s ‘Top End’ is a vaguely defined region encompassing a section of the Northern Territory north of Katherine. A large part of it (97,000sqkm) is Arnhem Land, bordering the Arafura Sea from the base of the Cobourg Peninsula in the west to the Gove Peninsula in the east. Most maps define it as a bland, beige-coloured patch, suggesting there is little adventure to be found there. The reality is very different.

Often considered Australia’s last frontier, Arnhem Land is a wild and untamed landscape, a spectacular mosaic of rugged coastlines dotted with remote islands, towering sandstone escarpments and sprawling savannah woodlands threaded by pristine rivers. These are habitats for abundant wildlife; it’s one of the richest and most diverse bioregions on the planet. The region’s small human population is predominantly Aboriginal and their ancestors emerged from the Dreamtime to occupy this land for more than 50,000 years and pass on a culture that remains largely unaffected by European influence.

“Often considered Australia’s last frontier, Arnhem Land is a wild and untamed landscape, a spectacular mosaic of rugged coastlines dotted with remote islands, towering sandstone escarpments and sprawling savannah woodlands threaded by pristine rivers”

Arnhem Land’s relative isolation is part of its appeal, attracting more than 100,000 visitors in 2019. Not lacking for motivation, the opportunity for us to go there