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  • Cook's Illustrated

    ONCE AND FUTURE

    Apr 07, 2020 2 minutes
    DAN SOUZA

    Editor in Chief

    I’ve got an arsenal of well-used cookware, but two pans in particular never seem to make it back into the cabinet. One is a stubby-handled Wagner cast-iron skillet with a thick, jet-black patina; the other is a lithe, long-handled carbon-steel frying pan with dramatically

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