THE BEST WINE YOU’VE NEVER TASTED -OLD VINE GRENACHE/GARNACHA
The highest point of my Garnacha/Grenache trip, literally, is about 900m above sea level, where it’s not the altitude that takes my breath away but the sight of majestic bush vines on sandy, stony soils. Naturally surrounded by juniper trees, holm oaks, pines and other native vegetation, are squat, thick-stumped Garnacha vines planted in 1913, now part of the 3.25 hectare La Centenera plot that makes a wine called Las Luces from Las Moradas de San Martín.
The late autumn day is fiercely sunny and wind-whipped at the same time, but head winemaker Isabel Galindo is completely in her element as she points out how these vines are pruned and maintained, a labour of passion when its yield is so low that most winemakers would prefer to rip them out and plant high-yielding new vines. A tasting of Las Luces shortly after cements my impression of this sophisticated, mineral rich wine, delivering power yet alluring black cherry and balsamic notes on the palate.
Rooted in generosity
Once one of
