Country Life

Getting to the roots of the matter

GROWING anything that has a hidden harvest takes faith. You have to care for the plant, water it when it’s dry, weed and otherwise faff without the reassurance of a crop that’s maturing before your eyes: there are no flowers turning to apples, no beans fattening in the pod, no leaves growing to meet the knife. Even late on, you have to hold your nerve. Two weeks is a long time in the underground world—unpromising tubers and roots in

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