KALAHARI CROSSING: Part 2

Much has changed since 1970. My friends, Willie and Siegfried (see Part 1), have long passed away. The road from Buitepos to Maun has been tarred and what took us more than three days can now be done in about five hours.

However, at age 78 my wanderlust is still alive and kicking and revisiting Botswana and its places of great memories were long overdue. Over the past 10 years, I have undertaken great journeys through southern Africa accompanied by an old friend from Germany, who visited me every second year, and a good portion of off-roading was always part of the experience. The previous trip took us through Namibia with Etosha, Khowarib, Epupa Falls, the Van Zyl’s Pass, Kaokoveld, Damaraland, Divorce Pass, Rhino Camp, and more, on the menu.

In planning one last trip of such nature, a reunion with the past had to be the major part. Meanwhile, my 15-year-old Jeep had been replaced with something more comfortable. But would the new Pajero Sport cope with Botswana’s potholes and deep sand?

Botswana has, over the last half-century, become an expensive country to travel as the government has taken a high-cost, low-volume approach to tourism in order to protect the country’s natural assets. This was noticeable when I made our preliminary bookings. Be that as it may, costs have to be in balance with quality and service and here, I have to say, the equation is failing, most of the time. The places that are exceptions are well booked, long in advance.

The border & up to Khama

We crossed the border at Ramatlabama and, as we were under time pressure, we felt it simply took too much time for the formalities – including that mandatory shoe wash with