Lonely Planet Magazine India

ADVENTURE ISLAND

@RGouldingTravel

@jonathanstokesphoto

WATERFALL-BAGGING FOR BEGINNERS

If you stand in the right places in Mauritius, and the main viewpoint in Black River Gorges National Park is one of them, a hazy memory of the geography classroom might come flooding back. The water cycle, often unnaturally compressed into one image, is illustrated here in a real-life, 180° view: freshly rain-soaked uplands spill their bounty into tall waterfalls, from whose bases the river valleys zigzag away to reach the sea, where a hot sun conjures up puffs of cloud. Rinse, repeat.

Mauritius is, to quote its motto, the ‘star and key of the Indian Ocean’, and beach time is understandably the prime goal of most visitors. But I’ve come to see what other activities might be found here, and inland seems the obvious place to start.

On an island where the ocean is rarely more than 10 miles away, rivers don’t have much time to put on a show, so the many fine waterfalls are a point of national pride. I head to the mountainous southwest of the country to seek out a favourite.

On looks alone, it probably has to be : two, by contrast, are hard to see without getting wet. Canyoners need ziplines, hard hats and easy-dry clothing to descend this sequence of seven cascades and pools.

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