Womankind

Life in the safari capital

November is a good month for a wedding in northern Tanzania. In November the rains come and the jacarandas turn blue, pushing out blossoms no bigger than your thumb; their masses of petals float above the rooftops of Arusha like puffs of blue mist. Rain on a wedding day is a sign of luck - rain makes a knot grow tighter, they say - and so is a jacaranda blossom that lands on the windshield of your car. You can be fairly sure that one or the other, raindrops or blue petals, will fall out of the sky to bless a November wedding.

Arusha is Tanzania’s safari capital; I arrived with a tourist visa. My guide Patrick, a Frenchman, was new

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