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AFTERNOON TEA IN THE Eighth Wonder of the World

F or more than a century, a massive red dome—larger than the roof of the Vatican’s St. Peter’s Basilica—has dominated the sylvan landscape alongside French Lick Creek in southeastern Indiana. And, for just as long, first-time visitors have wondered how this mammoth resort hotel came to be built in the tiny town of West Baden Springs, miles away from any major city. In 1901, Lee W. Sinclair began construction on

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