Skin in the game

White-tableclothed Cantonese restaurants won’t be having a renaissance any time soon in Auckland. In fact, the numbers are already dwindling. We have some stalwarts — Grand Park, Grand Harbour, China Hong Kong in Birkenhead, Canton Café — but Auckland’s attention has largely shifted to an increasingly diverse offering of Chinese food from mainland China, reflecting the regions our new migrants are moving from.

But, after more than 35 years, Auckland continues to have Empress Garden.