CALL COLLECT: JOHN GOLDBERGER A.K.A. AURO MONTANARI

There is something about Auro Montanari, otherwise known by his watch-collecting nom de plume, John Goldberger, that tells you immediately that you are in the presence of greatness. And though he is a tall man whose generous demeanour displays a genuine sense of noblesse oblige, his more defining characteristics are his soft-spoken eloquence and his inimitable old-world elegance. He is the very definition of an old-school gentleman, radiating a magnetic gentility that makes you think he’s stepped off the screen of a Visconti film or, better yet, a novel by di Lampedusa adopted by Visconti. His style is characterised by soft-shoulder doppio peto Caraceni suits married with sublime degage cool — his trademark frayed denim shirts are as original and trail-blazing as his status as watch collector. In horological circles, he is considered something of a demigod, descended from Mount Olympus to guide mankind to vintage-watch-collecting enlightenment. He is many things: a consummate author, a prolific photographer, a gourmand and, very possibly, the single most famous watch collector in Christendom. But of all his qualities, he shines, in particular, in his greatness as a friend.

Last year, I had the opportunity to make a piece unique with Cartier and it was a total team play, which is you know, I didn’t realize at the time that Auro [Montanari] clearly shares a passion for that particular model. When I showed it to him, he said something like ‘Oh do you like Cartier?’ and he sent me a picture of this and I literally fell off my chair. It’s one of the most staggering collections, as you would expect from the awesome dude, and the amazing fount of knowledge that is Mr. Goldberger. So I think we should start with the Tank Cintrée. You share a passion for this model as well.

I fell in love with the Cintrée the first year I