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Bean there, done that?

The old folks used to call green beans string beans. It’s clear why, especially when you conjure up a memory of your mom in her kitchen, bowed over the large plastic bowl, with the sharp little knife in her hand…

These days, supermarkets sell elegant thin French green beans that can be added to any dish right away, or simply lightly steamed and served with butter. But the old-fashioned string bean requires a little more prep to make the most of it. Apart from the hard stalks on either side that have to be removed, most recipes require you to score the beans. I like to preserve colour and crunch by plunging the beans into boiling water for two minutes, then immediately into cold water to stop the cooking process. If you like, you can then freeze them to add some summer nutrition to your autumn and winter bredies, or other dishes of your choice.

Green beans are also delicious pickled, and in pies, pastas and soups, but the old French way remains my favourite: sauté the beans slowly in butter with lots of smoked bacon (pancetta is

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