epicure

The Subtle Art of Safari

Emerging from the dark charcoal cover of night, three elephant bulls amble towards the fire pit. Sitting together with Charles Sebaga beside Kwara Camp’s crackling flames, I dare not exhale as the pachyderms plod ever forward. Having been based in the concession since 2001, Charles is an area expert here. Like many Batswana working for Kwando Safaris (a 100 percent citizen-owned outfit) he started his career as a guide, then worked his way up to manager. Today he stands at the helm of Kwando’s finest renewal to ensure everything runs smoothly. This is just another day at the office.

Charles motions for us – a group of gawping guests – to sit tight. The enormous mammals keep to the protective shadows just beyond the

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