CARLTON, VIC

THOUGH NO ONE’S GOING to deny that it has its tacky side, Carlton is one of those rare Melbourne precincts that just seems to keep enduring and evolving. Once you look beyond the “ciao bella” cheese of the touristy bits, you’ll find an appealing mix of traditional European timelessness, retro nostalgia and energetic, youthful vision – you just need to know where to look.

When Italian migrants arrived in the area (then a Jewish enclave) post-Second World War they brought with them espresso, olive oil and a way of good living that laid the foundations for the stellar food and wine scene that Melbourne has since gained glowing international recognition for.