ENGAGE AND RELEASE
It all began when I left my fins at home one day. I’d planned to ride my single-fin log at Mullaz, but when I got to the carpark, I reaslied I hadn’t packed the skeg.
I live quite far from the beach and the waves were too good to go back, so I just rode the board finless. I caught a few without spinning out and ended up surfing the whole day. After that,
