KILLING THE MUSE
IN THE PROCESS, SURFING’S PEAK MOMENT HAS BECOME JUST ONE MORE THING TO YAWN AND BE BORED BY
Once, the only way you could experience the view from inside the barrel was to actually get barrelled.
It was surfing’s mystical, transcendent, peak moment. A bit like losing one’s virginity, it was a club you joined after much fumbling and clumsy foreplay, when some of
