THE LOCAL
The best wave in the country is guarded by a notorious local. He patrols his spot with tough skin and a sly wink. The right-hander peels empty most of the year, with only frigates and sea life to witnesses its ethereal perfection.
We had a week. Jake paddled the half-hour out to the reef in a frothing fizz each day. I opted for a fun little peeler closer to
