Surfing Life

HEAVY ARMOUR ARE YOUR BOARDS TOO LIGHT?

It was Hawaiian powerhouse surfer and international competitor, Dane Kealoha, who used to talk about weight and about how if you wanted to succeed in Hawaii for the season, your boards needed to be heavier. That was when the ASP ran three events in Hawaii for their premier league. With Sunset Beach in the mix, it was often the most important contest of the year with qualifications lost or regained, at that event. As anyone who has surfed Sunset, or watched it feathering on a big day when it’s big and windy, knows it’s a ridiculously-hard wave to surf and even harder to surf well.

Big and juicy west peaks at Sunset do not like feather-light toothpicks. They prefer blades wrapped in a few layers of 6-ounce cloth.

“A couple of extra pounds,” is what Kealoha used to describe his program to get ready for the North

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Surfing Life

Surfing Life2 min read
Issue 370: Autumn
Jingi wahlu? [Hi, how are you?] We greet you in Yugambeh, the language of the Kombumerri people, one of the nine Original clans in the Gold Coast region, where SL mag was birthed (in the mid-eighties) and has been continuously formulated by wave-hunt
Surfing Life3 min read
Free-range (oceanic) Mountain Goats
Two GOATs walk into a bar … that would be a good premise for a funny joke, but the news that recently came across the wire in surfing is no joke. It’s serious, slightly shocking at first, but not surprising. Carissa Moore and Stephanie Gilmore are “t
Surfing Life2 min read
The Lineup
Lystra, a First Nations multi-award-winning writer, has a background in design and education. She won the Ethel Turner Prize, the Victorian Premier’s Literary Award, and the Black & Write Fellowship. Lystra shortlisted for the Prime Minister’s Litera

Related