Surfing Life

MOORE ALOHA

Change is like a pulse in the ocean – imperceptible at first and slowly it makes its way within eyesight, creating a wave that takes shape and makes music.

It comes incrementally. As surfers, we know this! Wait for the swell, sit in the lineup, paddle into a wave, fall off, wait in the lineup, work on a move, wait for the swell, rinse and repeat. It takes small improvements over time. Until one day you finally become competent, or hopefully good.

Change doesn’t discriminate, it applies to everyone – individuals, groups, genders and races. If

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Surfing Life

Surfing Life12 min read
Surviving Death
There are a lot of ways to die while surfing. This is not a subject to be taken lightly, as seemingly every year, we tragically go through the surfing-related death of surfers ranging from hometown heroes to elite-level pros to beginners just trying
Surfing Life5 min read
The (en)right Stuff
It’s 2024. Kobie Enright’s in her prime: the decade of The Twenties at age twenty-four. [Numerologist’s synapses will overfire at this!] Kobie has been sponsored by a surf-brand giant since she was fourteen years of age and is the new gen of Coolie K
Surfing Life14 min read
Carpe Unda: Maldivian Cruise Mode
“Surf travel” or “travel surf ”, these two action words are interchangeable. Is one more important than the other? When leaving down under to explore other cyan seas, should we prioritise “surf ” or “travel”? If your idea of surf travel is turning u

Related Books & Audiobooks