KILLER WAVES
Has Reunion Island moved on from the modern tragedy playing out when nature goes out of balance?
L’Hermitage is the widest, most extensive and best-preserved lagoon in Réunion Island. Centuries ago a powerful river ran down into the lagoon and the freshwater slowly contributed to attrition of the coral reef, eventually leading to a weak point. The massive body of water, looking for a low tide escape point, worked on that weak point, eventually breaking through the coral and allowing for the water to rush out, twice a day.
In the process two waves were formed at the passage. The right and the left at L’Hermitage Pass are both exciting, barrelling waves, with the right being a bit shorter and more intense, but both good waves.
I paddled out there 29 years ago, in my youth. The waves were solid. The right was washing though, and there were about five guys out on the left, sharing a few of these heavy six-foot walls. It was gnarly, shallow and grinding, my first time out there and I wanted nothing to do with it. There was one guy out, however, who was quietly charging. I can’t remember his name, but I remember that he looked a
