FILTHY HABITS

THIS may come as no surprise to you, but when I started out surfing for the very first time, I was an absolute mess.

My paddling was all over the place, I was always way too far back on the board, and if I ever managed to rise to my feet, performing a simple turn may as well have been nailing a backside 540. In other words: bloody impossible.

However, slowly but surely, things started to improve. The task of paddling out didn’t seem as distant and daunting as it once was. Getting to my feet was becoming a fluid symphony between muscle and memory. And my turns… well, they still suck, but certainly not an impossible a notion as before.

But along the journey of learning the nuances of surfing I, like many others, have picked up some bad habits along the way.

While we may do our best to hide some of those habits, soon enough they are going to be one of the reasons your progression is stalling, and your sessions in the brine