GOA GROWS UP
a Portuguese word for “quiet,” the Goan notion of susegad refers to a laidback, unhurried attitude toward life. Until recently, though, the nightlife scene in India’s smallest state was anything but. During the 2000s, tourists flocked to hilltop neon-lit raves featuring trance and techno music. Then the party scene moved indoors to clubs and bars where people danced to commercial tunes until the wee hours of the morning. But things are changing now with a
