International Traveller

48 HOURS IN: ATHENS

DAY ONE

8AM: The Parthenon stands sentry over the city of Athens as it has done for 2500 years, but its founders might be shocked by the concrete jungle that has developed a few hundred metres below it over millennia. Sprawling apartment blocks; tiny domed churches; ancient ruins; archaeological digs and box-shaped cars sit side by side to form the 21st-century city. Nothing is spared from graffiti but plunge past the grunge into its alleyways and you may never want to come out. Start the day with breakfast at the ATHER restaurant overlooking MONASTIRAKI SQUARE . Get into the Greek spirit with freshly squeezed orange juice and Greek-style scrambled eggs with

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