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  • International Traveller

    WALKING ON THE MOON

    Mar 13, 2019 4 minutes

    A white plume on the horizon looks to be low-hanging cloud, oddly hovering in the distance on an otherwise clear day. The hazy outline of an island then starts to bounce in and out of view as our boat smacks across the ocean. As we inch closer, it’s apparent the so-called cloud is being puffed skyward.

    Before us lies one of New Zealand’s most beautiful islands, although not in a conventional sense. Instead of leis, we have gas masks strung around our necks, and in place of sun hats we don helmets, because in this context, tropical island is code for live volcano. And we’re about to charge straight into its rumbling, grumbling core.

    A CHEQUERED HISTORY

    White Island, or

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