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THE KINGDOM OF THE BICYCLE

The red dirt road cuts a sharp path past the tropical greenery as we ride through the sticky heat of the day. In front of us, a herd of bony white Brahman cows are on the move, filling the otherwise empty road. On either side, rows of leafy mango trees stretch out into the gentle hills.

As we pedal through the mob, the young boy guiding the animals smiles and says hello. It’s likely the only word of English he knows, and he obviously gets a kick out of hearing us echo the greeting back to him. Later, we roll through a small village. The houses are all on poles, with families sheltering from the vicious heat of the day in the open-air living space below. There are no fences at the front of their properties, and we can see right into their lives as we ride past. Groups of children run out waving and screaming hello. A smile and a wave leaves the kids beaming and laughing, distracting us from our weary legs and the baking sun.

This is the reality of Cambodia by bike, and these are the moments that stick in your mind. It’s a long way from the magnificent temples of Angkor Wat and tragic history of the Killing Fields, both of

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