Dramatic Turn
’VE BEEN SPOTTED ASing critic before. Usually, it launches an unspoken game, the rules of which have been passed down through generations. No one says a thing. No comps, no bribes, no hovering. The restaurant sends its best server, someone gregarious but appropriate. We both try to do our jobs the best we can. During a 2016 meal at Grace, Curtis Duffy referred to me by the fake name under which I’d made my reservation, when we both knew damn well I was not Danny Lewison. That’s how you play the game.
