BELGRADE MILITARY HISTORY MUSEUM

Making up a small corner of the very large grounds of Belgrade Fortress, the BMHM is very much a tale of two parts. The first is the museum itself, which is professionally run and spread over two stories of an imposing stone structure, occupying space within the inner walls of the impressive defensive complex that used to guard the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. The second, well, we’ll come to that in due course.

Visitors enter the foyer of the museum proper and stroll through chronologically arranged displays detailing around 2,100 years of regional warfare, starting with the Elyrian peoples and ending with the U.S.-led NATO attacks in 1999. Throughout the tour, there’s no sense that you have to conform to a carefully scheduled