WHY GAAHL WENT ROGUE

Bergen’s Bryggen district is prone to fire. The wooden buildings that overlook the docks burned down in 1702 and suffered further damage over the years, including a partial incineration in 1955. The cycle of destruction and rebirth can unearth treasures, however. During the last reconstruction, a set of runic inscriptions dating up to the medieval age was discovered, arguably the most important such find in the 20th century and a continuity uncovered by upheaval.

Today, Bryggen is a tourist area; 300 metres along the docks, the imposing Bergenhus fortress overlooks various cruise and cargo ships, while restaurants and souvenir shops are set into mustard, white and red period constructions that, like our own Tudor buildings, charmingly can’t muster a right angle between them.

It’s not an area you’d expect to find a hub of the black metal scene. Walk up the wooden steps beside Bryggen 37 and on the second floor you’ll find the Nidhogg tattoo studio, co-owned by Jannicke-Wiese Hansen, the artist whose logo designs and artwork for Burzum’s and Satyricon’s first releases – in direct contrast to her character – laid down