IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF SHOGUN

I’M sitting cross-legged on the floor of a traditional inn in rural Japan, sipping sake and contemplating my existence. In the last eight days I’ve walked 115km of the Nakasendo Way – a picturesque trail used by Japan’s Imperial warriors since the 17th century. It’s taken me on a physical and spiritual journey steeped in history through the mountainous Kiso region. In parts, the trail has scarcely changed in hundreds of years. The verdant valleys, tranquil forest paths, stunning mountain passes and restored post towns have captured my heart.

The shogun created the Nakasendo Way at the start of the Edo period (1603-1868) – a time of unprecedented economic growth in Japan’s history – for the feudal lords to travel between Kyoto (the home of the Japanese emperor) and the new capital of Edo, modern-day Tokyo. The road, which covers almost 500km, became highly developed and used by pilgrims, merchants, samurai and traders. Sixty-nine post towns were developed along the route, where travellers could rest, eat and restock.