SWAKOPMUND
MORNING
7am: Wake up at Sophia Dale Base Camp, about 11 km from Swakopmund on the banks of the dry Swakop River. There might not be a lot of grass to camp on – you’re in the middle of the desert after all – but there’s good shade and clean ablution facilities. Have a cup of coffee, buy some of the salami made by owners Michaela and Manfred Lütz and head into town.
8.30 am: Sit down at Die Muschel Books & Fine Art in the Brauhaus Arcade between Hendrik Witbooi and Tobias Hainyeko streets, and order a fresh bread roll with smoked salmon, sour cream and
