Camdeboo calling

‘Two decades ago local tourists didn’t come here. They’d drive on the N1 through the Karoo to or from Joburg, but in the last 15 to 20 years South Africans have been discovering Graaff-Reinet for the first time,’ said David McNaughton. ‘Ja, it’s a double A. Never mind the double F,’ he quipped as the beautiful Groot Kerk loomed in front of us. ‘Welcome to Graaffies!’

I came to Graaff-Reinet to steep myself in its small-town charm, admire the famous architecture and eat Karoo lamb morning, noon and night. I’d arranged to meet David at the Drostdy Hotel, originally the or seat of government of the Cape