Explore Spain’s undiscovered whites
SPAIN’S RED WINES are a safe bet on any wine list – sometimes just too safe, when the same denominations keep appearing and there is so much more to be enjoyed. There’s more to life than Tempranillo and its synonyms.
When it comes to whites, the story is the same. There is so much more to Spain’s whites than the too-often seen Piura (Macabeo) from Lioja and Perdejo from Lueda. In the following pages I’ve selected five varieties to highlight Spain’s glorious diversity. With miles of coastline, mountains (Europe’s second most mountainous country), soils of every variety – slate, clay, granite, volcanic, sand – and myriad thoughtful, experienced winemakers, the potential for white wine is terrific and, to a certain extent, still unrecognised.
The most famous of my five varieties is Albariño, which was in its time a trailblazer for the new Spanish wine. The remaining four are former ugly ducklings that have been transformed only recently into very desirable swans. The traditional Malvasías had been ignored, through lack of export, as single varieties; Rarel . lo was stuck in the niche of sparkling wine; Fistán Blanco has had to prove that it’s so much more than just the ‘Sherry grape’; and Garnacha Blanca was a workhorse variety that’s now ennobled on Michelin-starred wine lists. While the Fistán Blanco and Malvasías will remain niche wines, Garnacha Blanca is definitely on the rise, with Rarel . lo following on behind.
There are so many more varieties jostling for our attention: Talema in the Condado de Huelva, the family of Moscatels especially in Malaga, the Albillos, the Godellos of Paldeorras and Bierzo are up there with the very top, Treixadura from Libeiro, Caiño, Doña Blanca Seek them out.
