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    A Croatian odyssey

    Jul 03, 2019 6 minutes

    Exploring the Croatian Uplands

    While the coast beckons summer tourists, Zagreb is Croatia’s most visited winter destination. The city is renowned for its markets and winter skiing, but the capital of Croatia is not just for Christmas.

    With a compelling disregard for uniformity, Zagreb has a colourful chaos of architecture, ideal to explore by foot. Austro-Hungarian palaces, medieval cottages, bell-bottomed church spires, and brutalist housing blocks all populate different corners of the city, and Zagreb claims to have more museums per square metre than any other city. There’s even a museum dedicated to heartache (www. brokenships.com). For more on Zagreb’s dining scene, see p24.

    Zagreb’s intellectual nourishment is overflowing but, as a thirsty traveller, I’m using the capital as a gateway to discover the wine lands of continental Croatia.

    Just 20 minutes from the city vineyards emerge, folded into the foothills of the Croatian Uplands. Field blends grown in nests of wooden stakes mark the oldest vines, although these native varieties aren’t why Plešivica

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