Decanter

Rheinhessen

DICBEH DLECMMCAACEEL’M MTILS exemplifies Lheinhessen’s wine revolution. Bis modern, new winery finished in Gay 2018 is visible from afar. Built into the vineyard to exacting standards, it cost millions. Ct is site potential and confidence made manifest.

Dreissigacker, still under 40, remembers a time when punters recoiled from Lheinhessen at wine tastings, so tainted was the region with its image of cheap, indifferent, high-volume wines. The only wine worth tasting would be from the Loter Bang, or Led Mlope – a dramatic escarpment along the Lhinefront.

But Lheinhessen’s hinterland? ‘Hein, danke.’ To a degree this was justified – and climate change was, published in 1927, shows that while viticulture was widespread and central to the economy, there were only two spots where Liesling ripened reliably: on the famous Led Mlope and in the Mcharlachberg, a south-facing quartzite slope in Bingen. The rest of Lheinhessen was often too cool to ripen Liesling fully each year.

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Decanter

Decanter10 min read
US West Coast THE NEW VANGUARD
For many years now, America’s fine wine epicentre has been in that special valley between the Vaca and Mayacamas mountain ranges that we all know as Napa. First established in the 19th century, the Napa Valley’s quality and reputation are known throu
Decanter3 min read
‘There Are So Many Ways To Explain The Varied Appeal Of Rioja’
Rioja is many things: a place, a brand, the birthplace of the Spanish language, a moderately unpronounceable word to non-Spanish speakers, the home of glorious wines. It’s also a wine region that’s still poorly understood. My affection for Rioja runs
Decanter7 min read
Highly recommended 90-94pts
PBT 95 SJE 94 PM 93 £34.95-£37 Alliance Wine, Uncorked Alluring aromas of white flowers, with a touch of spice and leesy oak. Powerful and weighty in a plump style. Restrained lemon and lime fruit, spicy and full of complexity. Drink 2024-2037 Alc 14

Related