THE VERDICT
Priorat is entering into a new phase of its modern history. The region is very prestigious, which has been vital in enhancing its self-confidence and its scope to be able to experiment and develop greater diversity within a well-defined overall identity. The permitted international grape varieties, so important in the early success of Priorat wines, now play second fiddle to Garnacha and Cariñena.
Key to quality in the region are viticulture and winemaker personality. Climate change is a factor – the last few years have seen a succession of extreme drought seasons, with record high temperatures interspersed with heavy rains, often coming at a bad moment. Vine-growers have been able to maintain very good quality despite these difficulties. One consequence of such developments is the rise of Cariñena – sturdy, reliable and great when yields are moderate – to star status alongside Garnacha. Very interestingly, the three top wines in this tasting are Cariñena-based.
The tasting was presented village by village. Unsurprisingly, Escaladei, Porrera and Gratallops earned most of the high accolades, while Vilella Alta, El Molar and Morera de Montsant were below (a very good) average. Clay soils in Escaladei give wines a different character, particularly in the Cariñena – a lovely contribution to diversity.
There were few surprises in terms of the producer names at the top, and very few wines showed the volatile acidity, oxidation or excessive alcohol problems that were more usual in the past. Clearly, though, some producers are still experimenting, with uneven results. There were some wines showing early oxidation, even a slight mustiness, which may result from winemaking practices.
While it was too soon to evaluate any differences between the new Priorat wine categories, we could certainly appreciate an extra element of finesse in some of the wines claiming a selected vineyard origin.
The ageing potential of Priorat wines is particularly tricky to evaluate. Past experiences have been mixed. Some wines, even among the great ones, go
