French Breads

BACK COVER ILLUSTRATED BY JOHN BURGOYNE

France lays claim to many of the world’s great breads, most notably the lean, chewy, deeply browned . Variations include , in which is often said to reference the loaf’s torpedo-like shape—a “bastardization” of a slender baguette and a round boule. Cuts in dough increase its crust-to-crumb ratio; many versions include olives, cheese, or seeds. The cuts in an loaf form a “ladder.” A is the French equivalent of pull-apart rolls. To make , boulangers place a thin disk of dough on top of a roll to form the “cap.” With its substantial crust and mellow tang, is a classic example of sourdough. rounds, which are sourdough-based, include whole-grain flours that lend them robust flavor. Buttery, eggy is baked in a fluted tin and topped with a rounded “head” of dough. is practically crustless and has a feathery crumb.