Baked Goat Cheese

THERE IS ONE thing you can count on at holiday cocktail parties: Appetizers featuring melted cheese go fast. Put out a dish of cheesy buffalo dip, a bowl of queso fundido, or a wheel of baked Brie, and your guests will cluster around it, spooning soft, warm morsels onto chips or bread, tucking spiderweb strands of cheese into their mouths, smiling and nodding in appreciation as they go.

But recently, I attended