HOW TO BUILD A SPEAKER CABINET

At the end of Part One of this Workshop, we signed off with the speaker baffle finished, but loosely screwed into the routed rebates in the cabinet panels. It’s time to make things more permanent and for this, I mix up another quantity of Cascamite glue.

Cascamite doesn’t stick plastic or metal and doesn’t require a huge amount of clamping force. There’s also a nice long open time, so I can feel relaxed about glueing in the baffle. Before glueing, I drill pilot holes for self-tapping screws all around the baffle’s outer edge.

With the glue spread all over the baffle rebate surfaces, I drop the baffle into position and tighten all the screws. The baffle sits flush, no clamps are required and after the glue has set completely, I’m able to remove the screws. Cascamite needs about 24 hours to cure and the best way to be sure is to keep the excess glue in your mixing tub. Once that glue has become crystalline and brittle, you know it has set.

Now it’s time to rectify my oversight when routing the rebate channels. I went all the way to the ends of the panels, which left me with small rectangular gaps in each corner. These need to be filled, so I begin by cleaning out wood