RESTORING REPUTATIONS
IN the drive towards greater emphasis on terroir, sense and uniqueness of vinous place, many European regions have long been exploring and evolving ways to incorporate notions of differing quality and vineyard specificity into appellation structures that are now often a few or many decades old. Soave, in the north-east of Italy just east of Verona, is one such location that earlier this year announced, after a near 20-year viticultural research and zoning project, the recognition of 33 “crus,” or single vineyards, whittled down from a long list of around 60 possibles.
Soave is one of those regions that expanded rapidly in the 1960s to meet rapidly increased demand, and stretched yields to
