Aperture

Collier Schorr Humanity, Visibility, Power

Matthew Higgs: I am going to start with a quote you put on your Instagram feed. It says: “For anyone who wonders why I wanted to make fashion pictures, now you know.” And there is the hashtag #humanityvisibilityequalspower. What animated that? I think it’s worth mentioning that this conversation is taking place two days after Trump’s executive order on immigration.

Collier Schorr: For me, Instagram is a dual platform for showing your work and for showing what you stand for. The picture I made for Saint Laurent, which accompanied the post, was more typical of a documentary picture than a fashion advertisement. Any one element could be seen as typical, but the models were styled and encouraged to perform and play outside of what is traditionally seen: heteronormal women.

We all know that fashion is theater. But it felt like a real moment when I was with those models, Selena Forrest and Hiandra Martinez. Because I was working alongside filmmaker Nathalie Canguilhem, who was also directing them, I could watch as though I were a voyeur. Or, more correctly, there was a performance that seemed to be happening outside of my command. I wasn’t prepared for what it would feel like to see that image as a billboard. It took me back to when I first started making art. I wanted to essentially make a billboard in a gallery that talked about visibility and representation at a time when there was no real lesbian representation in the art world.

MH: Your imagery circulates in the context of both the art world and the larger world of fashion. How would you characterize the differences between these cultural, social, and, I guess, political spheres?

: They are both places where you have an audience. I don’t really distinguish between the two audiences, because for the most part, they are the same people. More people look at advertising than go to galleries.

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Aperture

Aperture2 min read
Counter Histories
What could an archive of the future look like? What creative possibilities are offered by the gaps, absences, and silences in historical records? How can artists engage with histories that weren’t photographed? How can found images contribute to a fu
Aperture1 min read
Aperture
Editor in Chief Michael Famighetti Senior Editor Brendan Embser Associate Managing Editor Varun Nayar Contributing Editors, The PhotoBook Review Noa Lin, Lesley A. Martin Copy Editors Hilary Becker, Donna Ghelerter, Chris Peterson Production Director
Aperture10 min read
Studio Visit
“My dream was to get out of New Haven,” writes Jim Goldberg in his 2017 photobook, Candy, a coming-of-age story that tracks his 1973 move west and the beginnings of his life as an artist, a seeker, and a man in near-constant motion. Goldberg’s eye wa

Related Books & Audiobooks