HIGHS IN LAOS

Rain,far too much of it, diverted my planned Laos trip to Sri Lanka a week before I departed. That’s how I learnt, ten years ago, that spontaneity and travel insurance are a solo traveller’s superpowers. For the next decade, I was tantalised by the tales of others who had been to Laos and loved it. I dreamed of swimming in the Mekong River and imagined scootering across the 450 km-long karst landscapes of Thakhek Loop. There were mountains to climb in Nong Khiaw, monasteries to tiptoe through in Luang Prabang, and taste buds to satiate with warm khao nom kok coconut cakes served on banana leaves at roadside markets.

Last year I did it all. Finally! My aim on this long-awaited trip was total culinary and cultural immersion – cue my