Sleepless round Scotland

Douglas and I were 14 when we first met. We raced each other in Toppers for a few years, but then went our separate ways.

Fate threw us back together when we found ourselves teaching for the Aberdeenshire Sailing Trust over 10 years later. Our first dates were spent travelling down to the Clyde to race and cruise Doug’s little 23ft Sonata, Vamonos. It was during these trips that we started dreaming of further horizons, and discussed the possibility of circumnavigating Scotland.

We’d only been together a few months when every weekend would be spent scraping, sanding, fibreglassing and preparing Vamonos for our big adventure. The upcoming summer was our only window of opportunity, as Douglas had a long holiday from university where he was studying Naval Architecture, and I was to leave my current role before starting teacher training in September.

Starting in Helensburgh at the end of May, our loose plan was to meander slowly up the west coast of Scotland, taking our time to explore as many islands and anchorages as possible before rounding Cape Wrath, heading to Orkney then shooting down the east coast and back through the Forth and Clyde Canal.

This would get us back in time for the Sonata national championships in Helensburgh at the end of July. At only 22ft 7in, and with no luxuries such as a head or fixed cooking facilities, Vamonos was to offer quite a challenge, but we were excited about the adventure ahead.

Helensburgh to Crinan

We had a few warm-up weekends before setting off, including an epic cruise from Port Bannatynne to Portavadie in gusts of 45+ knots. Except for ripping the leech off the No3 jib, Vamonos held up well. At the end of May, after a long drive from Kingussie for me and Aberdeen for Doug, a stop-off in Oban for fuel and food and dropping a car at Craobh marina, we arrived in Tarbert, Loch Fyne about 6.30pm on Saturday 30th. Quickly loading the boat, we waved goodbye to my parents and set sail for Ardrishaig in about 15-18 knots. The forecast for the next few days was wet and stormy so we were aiming to get into the Crinan Canal as early as possible the next morning.

It was a lovely, fresh downwind sail, and it wasn’t long before we were squeezing onto the pontoon just outside the first lock about 9pm. We tucked into a curry cooked on our new stove and enjoyed a bottle of wine, very happy that our long-planned adventure was finally under way.

The following morning we made our way to the sea lock and were delayed an hour as we waited for another yacht followed by the payment queue. We ate porridge and drank tea to keep warm –