Like A Charm

The cooks in the open kitchen and the servers on the floor at 22-year-old Potager have a call-and-response routine that counts down the availability of limited-production dishes. “Three peach crumbles!” shouts a cook. “Three peach crumbles!” reply the servers. The theatrics of this fall somewhere between the “oorahs” of Parris Island Marine recruits and a Bud Light “dilly dilly” ad. It’s just one of several endearing Potager quirks that made me like it even more than some other local restaurants that are arguably better.

Potager is a Denver farm-to-table pioneer, but I have to confess that I hadn’t eaten there before it was sold by its longtime chef-owner, Teri Rippeto, this past April. Paul and Eileen Warthen—who were and remain