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    The extraordinary rise of drag brunch: a dining delight or a betrayal of queer history?

    Five years ago, breakfasting while being serenaded by a Geri Halliwell impersonator was a novelty. Now, mainstream venues are serving up drag – and LGBT venues are suffering
    by Edward Siddons Mar 17, 2019 4 minutes
    Just May at Dalston Superstore. Photograph: Teri Pengilley/The Guardian

    It is 1pm on an unseasonably warm Sunday in February, and I am eating a BLT in Dalston, east London, while a 6ft 4in drag queen dressed as Geri Halliwell questionsa bearded Scottish man about when he last got laid.

    This isn’t how I normally breakfast. Neither is this the morning after an improbable tryst. This is drag brunch, an unholy amalgam of high camp and everyone’s favourite portmanteau meal – and it is reaching saturation point.

    Five years ago, drag brunch was limited to a few, mainly gay, venues around London. Now, it is a weekend ritual. The Fence in Farringdon, the Breakfast Club in Shoreditch and hosting events.

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