The Guardian

Going straight: the yakuza gangster who swapped the underworld for udon

As crime syndicates lose their attraction, membership is falling and some are making a new life on the right side of the law
Takashi Nakamoto, a reformed yakuza, in the kitchen of his noodle restaurant Daruma-ya, in Kitakyushu, on the southern Japanese island of Kyushu. Photograph: Noboru Aoki/Shinchosha

Takashi Nakamoto yells a friendly greeting from the kitchen when he spots a customer slide open the door to his restaurant, his face just visible through the steam rising from pots of stock and boiling water.

As he slices leeks and shakes the residual water from another batch of al dente udon noodles, it is easy to miss the most conspicuous physical reminder of Nakamoto’s life before he opened his restaurant, Daruma-ya, in the gritty southwestern city of Kitakyushu in June last year.

His missing pinkie is the legacy of three decades entrenched in Japan’s underworld, during which he rose from foot soldier to a senior position in the Kudo-kai, one of

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