A river runs through it

The first time I arrived at Kudu Kaya was after an adventure-motorcycle ride through the epically beautiful and challenging Baviaanskloof.

One member of our group had dropped his big BMW when exiting a river, and had cracked the tappet cover on one of the cylinder heads. After we’d limped the 25 km to Kudu Kaya, dribbling oil along the way, our hosts ushered us into a well-lit workshop. Their son, the late Johan van